Exit animal fur. The luxury group Kering, which notably owns the brands Balenciaga, Saint Laurent, Brioni and Alexander McQueen has just announced, in the face of pressure from associations like Peta, that it will no longer use animal fur in its collections. A choice congratulated by activists for the animal cause which puts a little more pressure on the giant LVMH, which itself still uses fur.

The last two brands of the luxury group Kering to use animal fur, Saint Laurent and Brioni, will forgo them as of the fall 2022 collections, the group announced on September 24. A pioneer within the group, Gucci announced in October 2017 to stop the use of fur from the spring-summer 2018 collections, then joined by Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta and Alexander McQueen.

For several years, many luxury brands including giants like Chanel have turned away from fur. Only Brioni and Saint Laurent had not taken the plunge at Kering, leading the organization for the defense of the animal cause Peta to demonstrate on March 10 in front of the Saint Laurent store on avenue Montaigne in Paris, after the protests expressed on the social media about an ad where model Kate Moss posed in a fox jacket.

“Fur does not correspond to modern luxury”

A petition from Peta called on Saint Laurent and Brioni to “join the hundreds of other designers and brands – including Armani, Burberry, Chanel, Gucci, Macy’s, Michael Kors, Prada and Versace – who now refuse to sell clothing or accessories in fur”. Marie-Claire Daveu, director of sustainable development at Kering, explains to AFP: ” We consider that slaughtering animals that will not be eaten strictly to use their fur does not correspond to modern luxury, which must be ethical, in phase with its times and the questions of society “.

As for the “standards related to animal welfare” published by the group in 2019, they “will continue to be rigorously applied, with regard to other animal fibers and materials,” she said . “In luxury, we are an influencer, we launch trends, so we consider that it is part of our responsibility to get things done”. The approach is hailed by the Brigitte Bardot Foundation, which now calls on the world number one in luxury, LVMH, to follow the trend ” in the same spirit of progress, of respect for the living” , reacted Christophe Marie, its spokesperson.

LVMH (Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Christian Dior …) told AFP “to leave (its) houses the possibility of continuing to use fur in order to offer (its) customers who wish to wear them. carried out in the most ethical and responsible way possible ” . He specifies that he has banned “endangered species” furs . An “animal welfare charter” governs the group’s supplies, which aims for “100% traceability” of its sectors “by 2026”.

Faced with pressure from animal protection associations and ethical considerations from a growing part of consumers, major fashion houses, but also ready-to-wear (Burberry, DKNY) have renounced animal fur in recent years. . The American department store chain Macy’s stopped selling them in early 2021 and the Canada Goose brand, known for its goose-feather jackets with hoods adorned with coyote fur, will stop making them by the end of 2022.